Cedars, Kasbahs and Dunes
Cities · Mountains · Desert

Cedars, Kasbahs and Dunes

Nine days from Casablanca to Marrakech, inland through the cedar forest instead of north to the coast

  • 9 days · 8 nights
  • Casablanca → Marrakech
  • About 29 hours over 9 days. driving

My other routes out of Casablanca all turn north for Chefchaouen and Tangier. This one turns inland instead. It goes down through the imperial cities, into the Middle Atlas — Ifrane, the cedar forest, the macaques, country that looks nothing like the Morocco on the postcards — and then follows the Ziz gorges all the way to the Sahara before coming back over the Atlas to Marrakech. It's a full crossing of the country that skips the coast entirely, and it's the easiest of my long routes to do with children: the driving is broken up, the macaques are a guaranteed hit, and there's something to get out and look at every couple of hours.

Why I run it this way

Starting in Casablanca and finishing in Marrakech means you're never doubling back — you see the country in one line rather than a loop, and you can fly out of a different airport than you flew into.

What you'll see

The things worth stopping for

  • Rabat and Meknes, which most itineraries skip past
  • Roman mosaics still in the floors at Volubilis
  • Barbary macaques in the cedar forest above Azrou
  • The Ziz gorges, and a night in the dunes at Erg Chebbi
The route

Where this trip takes you

Straight lines between stops, not the exact roads — the driving is the winding version of this.

Start Casablanca
Day 1 Rabat
Day 2 Volubilis
Day 3 Fes
Day 4 Azrou
Day 5 Merzouga
Day 6 Todra Gorge
Day 7 Dades Valley
Day 8 Ait Ben Haddou
Day 9 Marrakech
Day by day

How the trip goes

  1. Day 1: Casablanca, Rabat, and on to Meknes

    Driving: About 4 hours

    The Hassan II mosque first, which is worth the stop even if you've seen photographs. Then Rabat — the kasbah of the Udayas above the river, and Chellah, where storks nest on Roman columns. Meknes for the night.

  2. Day 2: Meknes and Volubilis

    Driving: About 3 hours

    The gates and the enormous granaries at Meknes in the morning. Volubilis after — mosaics still in the floors of the houses they were laid for — then up to Moulay Idriss on its two hills before dropping into Fes.

  3. Day 3: Fes, with someone who knows it

    Driving: None

    A full day in the medina with a local guide. Over nine thousand alleys is not somewhere to work it out for yourself the first time — I handle the road and the timing, they handle the maze.

  4. Day 4: Into the cedar forest

    Driving: About 4 hours

    South through Ifrane, built to look Alpine and doing a convincing job of it, then the cedars above Azrou and the Barbary macaques that come down to the roadside. On to Midelt for the night.

  5. Day 5: The Ziz, and the dunes

    Driving: About 5 hours

    Down the Ziz gorges, following a palm valley that runs most of the way to the desert. Erfoud, then out to Erg Chebbi for the night under the dunes.

  6. Day 6: Desert dawn, then west

    Driving: About 4 hours

    Sunrise on the sand, then Rissani market — dates, iron and livestock, none of it arranged for visitors — and west along the road to the Todra gorge.

  7. Day 7: Gorges and roses

    Driving: About 4 hours

    Todra in the morning, the Dades switchbacks from the viewpoint above them, Rose Valley and the palm groves at Skoura into Ouarzazate.

  8. Day 8: Ait Ben Haddou and over the Atlas

    Driving: About 5 hours

    The ksar in the afternoon light, the Ounila back road, Telouet, and then the Tizi n'Tichka into Marrakech.

  9. Day 9: Marrakech

    Driving: None

    The medina, the gardens, and whatever's left on the list. I'll get you to the airport whenever the flight is.

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The fine print

What's included

Included

  • Private air-conditioned van with me driving
  • 8 nights accommodation including 1 in a desert camp
  • Breakfast each morning, dinner at the camp
  • Fuel, tolls and parking
  • Casablanca pickup, Marrakech drop-off

Not included

  • Flights and visas
  • Travel insurance
  • Lunches and dinners unless listed
  • Entrance fees to monuments and museums
  • Local guides inside the medinas
  • Tips
Places on this route

Read more about where you'll be

Photographs

A closer look

Your version of this trip

Tell me when you're coming

Every route bends: more time somewhere, a different start, a night added. Send your dates and I'll plan it around you.

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