The Craft Road
Cities · Desert · Mountains

The Craft Road

Nine days from Fes to Marrakech, following the things people still make by hand

  • 9 days · 8 nights
  • Fes → Marrakech
  • About 26 hours over 9 days. driving

Almost every workshop on this route is somewhere I already drive past. This trip just stops at them. It runs the length of the country from Fes to Marrakech, and the thread holding it together is craft: what's made, where, and why it's made there and not somewhere else. Clay that only comes out that green in one oasis. Carpets whose patterns tell you which valley the weaver is from. Fossils cut out of a seabed that's now a desert. You'll meet people working, not performing, and you'll come home with things that mean something. I'll also tell you plainly which of two doors is the workshop and which is the shop.

Why I run it this way

I take you to workshops, not to showrooms that pay for the introduction. If you buy something, you buy it from the person who made it, at the price they set.

What you'll see

The things worth stopping for

  • Tanneries, brass and zellige in Fes, watched from the workshop floor
  • Damascene metalwork in Meknes
  • Fossil marble cut and polished at Erfoud
  • The green glaze of Tamegroute, which is made nowhere else
  • Ouzguita carpets on the loom at Taznakht
The route

Where this trip takes you

Straight lines between stops, not the exact roads — the driving is the winding version of this.

Start Fes
Day 3 Meknes
Day 4 Erfoud
Day 5 Merzouga
Day 6 Tamegroute
Day 7 Taznakht
Day 8 Ait Ben Haddou
Day 9 Marrakech
Day by day

How the trip goes

  1. Day 1: Fes: fire, skin and metal

    Driving: None

    The tanneries first, from a terrace above the pits, then the brass souk where you hear the workshops before you see them. The afternoon in the potters' quarter at Ain Nokbi, where the clay is thrown, fired and cut into mosaic.

  2. Day 2: Fes: thread and tile

    Driving: None

    Weavers at their looms, then the zellige cutters — the tile mosaic that covers half the country, chipped to shape by hand, one piece at a time. Al-Attarine in the afternoon to see what all of it looks like at its absolute peak.

  3. Day 3: Meknes, then south

    Driving: About 4 hours

    Damascene work in Meknes: silver inlaid into blackened steel, a technique that came the long way round from Damascus. Then south out of the imperial cities and into the Middle Atlas, sleeping at Midelt.

  4. Day 4: Carpets, then the Ziz

    Driving: About 4 hours

    A morning with the weavers at Midelt, where the carpets are heavier and darker than anything from the south. Then down the Ziz gorges — the palm valley that runs all the way to the desert — to Erfoud and the workshops cutting fossil marble.

  5. Day 5: Rissani, and the dunes

    Driving: About 2 hours

    Rissani market, which is where the caravans used to end: dates, iron, livestock and everything else, and none of it arranged for visitors. Then out to Erg Chebbi for the night under the dunes.

  6. Day 6: West along the Draa to Tamegroute

    Driving: About 6 hours

    A long, good drive west with the desert on one side. We finish at Tamegroute, where the pottery comes out of the kiln that particular green and where the library still holds manuscripts written on gazelle skin.

  7. Day 7: Up the valley to Taznakht

    Driving: About 4 hours

    Back up the Draa through Zagora and Agdz, then west to Taznakht — carpet country, where the Ouzguita weave patterns you can read like a signature.

  8. Day 8: Ait Ben Haddou, and over the pass

    Driving: About 5 hours

    East to Ait Ben Haddou for the afternoon light on the earth walls, then the Tizi n'Tichka into Marrakech.

  9. Day 9: The Marrakech souks

    Driving: None

    The last day in the souks with someone who knows which door leads to a workshop. Dyers, leather, lantern-makers, and the bit of the medina where things are still made rather than just sold.

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The fine print

What's included

Included

  • Private air-conditioned van with me driving
  • 8 nights accommodation including 1 in a desert camp
  • Breakfast each morning, dinner at the camp
  • Workshop visits arranged in advance
  • Fuel, tolls and parking
  • Fes pickup, Marrakech drop-off

Not included

  • Flights and visas
  • Travel insurance
  • Lunches and dinners unless listed
  • Entrance fees to monuments and museums
  • Local guides inside the medinas
  • Tips
Places on this route

Read more about where you'll be

Photographs

A closer look

Your version of this trip

Tell me when you're coming

Every route bends: more time somewhere, a different start, a night added. Send your dates and I'll plan it around you.

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